Every year, GQ food critic, Brett Martin, gives a lot of shine to the best new restaurants in America. But this time he turns his attention to the places that have been our go-tos for a couple of decades now. They are too old to be new, too new to be institutions. In other words, eat here now and forever.
Be sure to read about il Buco, "the sleeping tigre of rustic, regional Italian food" in the full.
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